Cross-Stitch Glossary: 100+ Terms Defined -- Brodette

A

Aida cloth: A stiff, evenweave cotton fabric with visible holes at regular intersections, making it the easiest fabric for counted cross stitch. Available in various counts (11, 14, 16, 18) where the number indicates holes per inch. See also: fabric types compared.
Anchor (brand): A major European brand of embroidery floss with its own color numbering system. Conversion charts are available to map Anchor colors to DMC equivalents.
Applique: A decorative technique where fabric shapes are attached to a base fabric. Sometimes combined with embroidery or cross stitch for textured pieces.

B

Backstitch: A line stitch used for outlines and fine detail. Creates a solid continuous line by stitching backward into the previous stitch hole. Often worked in a single strand over completed cross stitches.
Basting: Long, temporary stitches used to hold fabric layers together or to mark the center of a fabric before starting a project. Removed after the main work is done.
Beading needle: A long, very fine needle with a small eye, used to add Mill Hill or seed beads to needlework. Passes through the small hole of a bead without catching the fabric.
Blackwork: A style of embroidery originating in Renaissance England, using only black thread on white or natural fabric to create geometric repeating patterns. Popular in Tudor times.
Blending filament: A fine specialty thread (often metallic or glittery) designed to be threaded alongside regular floss. Adds subtle sparkle without the difficulty of stitching pure metallic thread.
Bobbin: A small spool or card used to wind and store individual colors of embroidery floss, keeping them organized and untangled in a floss organizer or storage box.
Bookmark pattern: A narrow, long cross stitch design intended to be framed or finished as a bookmark. Good beginner project due to small stitch count.

C

Canvas: A stiff needlepoint fabric with an open mesh structure. Different from Aida — canvas is used for needlepoint (tent stitch), not traditional counted cross stitch.
Chain stitch: A decorative stitch creating a chain of loops, used for outlines, borders, and filling areas. Each stitch loops through the previous one.
Charted design: A pattern displayed on a grid where each square represents one stitch. Symbols or colors indicate which thread color to use. See: how to read a cross-stitch pattern.
Colonial knot: A figure-8 knot that lies flatter and more securely than a French knot. Popular in Australian embroidery traditions.
Conversion chart: A reference table mapping thread colors between different brands (e.g., DMC to Anchor to Madeira), allowing substitution when a specific color is unavailable.
Cotton floss: Standard 6-strand embroidery thread made from mercerized cotton. The most common thread type for cross stitch. DMC and Anchor are the leading brands.
Count (fabric): The number of stitches (or holes) per linear inch. 14-count is most popular for beginners; higher counts produce smaller, more detailed stitches. See the aida count reference chart.
Couching: A technique where one thread is laid on the surface and held down with small stitches of a finer thread. Good for metallic threads or thick materials.
Cross stitch: The foundational stitch: two diagonal stitches crossing each other to form an X. Worked on evenweave fabric with each stitch occupying one square of the grid.
Cutwork: Embroidery where portions of the background fabric are cut away after being outlined with stitches, creating an openwork or lace effect.

D

Darning stitch: A running stitch worked in parallel rows to fill an area or reinforce fabric. In embroidery, used decoratively in Sashiko and Japanese needlework.
DMC: The most widely used brand of embroidery floss, with a full palette of 454 colors each identified by a unique number. DMC colors are the industry standard for cross stitch pattern design. See: DMC thread colors explained.
Dye lot: Thread from the same production batch. Slight color variations can occur between lots. For large projects, buy all thread for a color from the same dye lot to avoid visible differences.

E

Embroidery floss: The standard thread used for cross stitch and embroidery. Typically 6 strands of loosely twisted cotton that can be separated for finer work.
Embroidery hoop: A circular or oval frame consisting of two rings — inner and outer — that clamp fabric taut for stitching. Available in plastic or wood, with sizes from 4" to 14" diameter.
Evenweave: Any fabric with equal thread count in both horizontal and vertical directions, producing square stitches. Includes Aida, linen, and Jobelan. See: fabric types compared.
Eye (needle): The hole at the top of a needle through which thread is passed. Tapestry needles have a large elongated eye to accommodate multiple strands of floss.

F

Fabric count: See Count (fabric).
Fat quarter: A piece of fabric cut as a quarter of a yard but in a square shape (18" x 22") rather than a strip. More useful than a quarter-yard strip for many needlework projects.
Finishing: The process of completing a stitched piece after all stitching is done: washing, pressing, mounting, or turning it into a finished item like a pillow or ornament.
Floss: Embroidery thread. Standard floss has 6 strands loosely twisted together that can be separated. Most cross stitch on 14-count fabric uses 2 strands.
Floss organizer: A storage system (binder, box, or card holder) for organizing floss bobbins by number. Helps track which colors you own and need to buy.
Frame: A rectangular frame (as opposed to a circular hoop) for holding fabric while stitching. Includes scroll frames and stretcher bar frames. Preferred for large projects.
French knot: A decorative knot stitch made by bringing thread to the front, wrapping it around the needle once or twice, and inserting the needle back through the fabric close to the starting point. Creates a small textured dot on the surface.
Frog / Frogging: Removing stitches. The term comes from "rip it, rip it" sounding like a frog croaking. A seam ripper or needle tip is used to carefully remove stitches without damaging the fabric.
Full stitch: A complete X-shaped cross stitch occupying one full grid square. Contrast with quarter stitch and half stitch.

G

Gauge: The number of stitches per inch in a finished piece, determined by fabric count. 14-count fabric produces 14 stitches per inch.
Graph paper: Grid paper used to design cross stitch patterns by hand. Each square represents one stitch. Pattern software (like Brodette) replaces graph paper for photo conversions.
Gridding: Marking the fabric with a temporary grid (every 10 squares) using thread or a water-soluble pen, to help count accurately when transferring a pattern.
Grime guard: A fabric cover that fits over a hoop to protect the outer ring from soiling the fabric edge. Also protects stitching from hoop burn.

H

Half stitch: A single diagonal stitch — only one arm of the X cross stitch. Used for shading areas, filling backgrounds, or creating directional texture.
Hardanger: A Norwegian form of whitework embroidery combining satin stitches (kloster blocks) with drawn thread work on 22-count Hardanger fabric.
Hoop: See Embroidery hoop.
Hoop burn: Creases or marks left on fabric from the pressure of a hoop, especially if left in place for extended periods. Prevents by covering the inner hoop with twill tape or using scroll frames for longer projects.

I

Interfacing: A woven or non-woven fabric backing bonded to the reverse of a finished piece to add structure and stability, especially when making items like bags or ornaments.
Iron-on transfer: A printed design on special paper that can be heat-transferred to fabric. Used for crewelwork and surface embroidery patterns, not typically counted cross stitch.

K

Kit: A packaged cross stitch project containing fabric, thread (in the correct amounts), needle, and pattern chart. Good for beginners as all materials are pre-selected.
Knot (starting): A method of anchoring thread when beginning a new section. Loop starts and waste knots are preferred over traditional knots, which create lumps on the back.

L

Laying tool: A smooth stick or stiletto used to guide thread strands flat and parallel as each stitch is made. Improves coverage and stitch appearance. Also called a thread mellor.
Light box: An illuminated flat panel used to trace designs through fabric or to see grid lines through darker fabric when counting.
Linen: A natural evenweave fabric made from flax fibers. Softer and more irregular than Aida. Usually stitched over 2 threads, so 28-count linen gives the same effective stitch size as 14-count Aida. See: fabric types compared.
Long stitch: A straight stitch spanning more than one grid square. Used for sky, background, or hair sections in some pattern types.
Loop start: A knotless thread start used with an even number of strands. Fold the thread in half, pass the two ends through the needle, bring up through fabric, then pass needle through the loop left at the back. No knot needed.

M

Metallic thread: Thread with a metallic sheen used for highlights, Christmas designs, and decorative elements. Harder to work with than cotton — use short lengths (30cm) to reduce tangling and fraying.
Mill Hill beads: A popular brand of glass seed beads commonly used in cross stitch for highlighting eyes, jewelry, or decorative details. Applied with a beading needle and matching thread.
Mono canvas: A single-thread canvas used for needlepoint where each thread is separate. Allows diagonal cuts and complex shapes that double canvas cannot.
Mounting: Securing a finished needlework piece to a rigid backing (board, card, or stretcher bars) for framing or display. Can be laced, stapled, or glued depending on the technique.

N

Needle: For cross stitch, a tapestry needle (blunt tip, large eye) is used. Common sizes are 24, 26, and 28 — higher number = finer needle. Size 24 or 26 for most 14-count work.
Needle minder: A magnetic accessory that holds the needle on the fabric surface when resting. Two magnets — one decorative on front, one plain on back — grip the fabric between them.
Needlepoint: Embroidery on stiff open-weave canvas using tent stitches or other needlepoint stitches. Related to but different from counted cross stitch — needlepoint uses canvas rather than evenweave fabric.

O

Openweave: Fabric or canvas with visible holes between the threads, allowing the needle to pass through without piercing fabric threads. Aida and needlepoint canvas are both openweave.
Over-dyed thread: Thread dyed with multiple colors along its length, creating gradual or random color changes as you stitch. Creates watercolor, mottled, or variegated effects.
Over one: Working a stitch over one thread of evenweave fabric (one hole to the next). Gives the smallest possible stitches on evenweave. Harder than over two — requires more precision.
Over two: Working a stitch over two threads of evenweave or linen. 28-count linen over two threads gives the same effective size as 14-count Aida.

P

Pattern: A charted design showing where each stitch goes and what color to use. Available as printed charts, digital PDFs, or software files. See: how to read a cross-stitch pattern.
Perforated paper: Stiff paper with evenly spaced holes used as a stitching surface. Creates rigid pieces like ornaments and bookmarks without fabric finishing.
Petit point: Very fine cross stitch or needlepoint worked at high counts (22+ count) to create highly detailed small designs. Requires magnification for most stitchers.
Pin stitch: A method of securing thread ends by threading back through existing stitches on the reverse side of the fabric, avoiding knots.
Ply: A single strand of thread. Standard 6-strand floss is 6-ply. Most cross stitch uses 2-ply (2 strands) for 14-count fabric.
Pressing: Using a damp cloth and iron to smooth finished needlework face-down on a towel. Lifts stitches and removes hoop marks without crushing the embroidery.

Q

Q-Snap frame: A rectangular plastic frame system using snap-on clamps to hold fabric taut. Doesn't leave hoop marks. Popular alternative to round hoops for large or rectangular projects.
Quarter stitch: A stitch covering one quarter of the grid square, running from a corner to the center hole. Used with three-quarter stitches to create curved edges and fine detail in patterns.
Quilting hoop: A shallow frame used for hand quilting. Not ideal for cross stitch as it doesn't hold fabric as tautly as an embroidery hoop with a tightening screw.

R

Railroading: A technique to keep thread strands smooth and parallel by guiding the needle between the strands on each stitch. Improves coverage and reduces the satin-like twisting of stitches.
Reverse cross stitch: A cross stitch where the diagonal direction is mirrored from the standard. Some patterns call for reversed stitches to create shading or directional effects.
Running stitch: A simple stitch where the needle passes in and out of the fabric in a straight line, leaving even gaps. Used for basting, gathering, or decorative lines.

S

Sampler: A display piece demonstrating a variety of stitches, alphabets, numbers, or motifs. Historically used by young girls to practice skills. Now made as decorative pieces.
Scroll frame: A rectangular frame with top and bottom rollers that hold fabric taut. The fabric can be rolled to access different sections of a large design without removing it from the frame.
Seed beads: Small glass or plastic beads added to cross stitch for decorative texture and sparkle. Applied with a beading needle to replace or accent individual stitches.
Selvedge: The self-finished edge of fabric that runs parallel to the warp threads, created during weaving. Does not fray. Identify by feel — slightly denser than cut edges.
Skein: A standard bundle of embroidery floss — approximately 8 meters (about 9 yards). One skein covers roughly 1,500 stitches on 14-count fabric using 2 strands. See: how many skeins do I need?
Slip stitch: A nearly invisible hand stitch used to close seams, hem edges, or attach linings. Used in finishing needlework projects like pillows or ornaments.
Stabilizer: A backing material used under fabric to provide stability during stitching. Often used with stretchy or unstable fabrics to prevent distortion.
Stand (floor/table): A frame holder that supports a hoop or scroll frame at a comfortable working height, freeing both hands for stitching. Available as floor stands or clamps to furniture.
Stitch count: Either the total number of individual stitches in a design, or the dimensions of a pattern expressed as width x height in stitches (e.g., 80 x 100 stitches). Used to calculate finished size and thread requirements.
Stranded cotton: Another name for cotton embroidery floss — thread made of 6 loosely twisted strands of cotton that can be separated and recombined.

T

Tail (thread): The short length of thread left at the start or end of a stitching section. Tails are woven under existing stitches on the back to secure them without knots.
Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large elongated eye, designed for counted cross stitch and needlepoint. The blunt tip slides through fabric holes without splitting threads.
Tent stitch: The basic needlepoint stitch — a half cross stitch covering one canvas intersection diagonally. Forms the foundation of needlepoint work.
Thimble: A protective cap worn on the fingertip to push the needle through thick fabric. Less commonly used for cross stitch on Aida (fabric is soft) but useful for canvas or multiple fabric layers.
Thread: The yarn or floss used for stitching. In cross stitch, usually 6-strand cotton floss (DMC, Anchor). Also includes specialty threads: metallic, silk, overdyed, and blending filaments.
Thread conditioner: A wax or silicone product (such as Thread Heaven or beeswax) drawn along thread before stitching to reduce tangling, knotting, and static, especially useful with metallic threads.
Thread Heaven: A brand of thread conditioner based on a silicone compound. Beloved by cross stitchers for reducing metallic thread fraying (though now discontinued, equivalent products are available).
Tramming: A foundation stitch run along the canvas threads before working tent stitches over them, providing padding and ensuring good coverage of the canvas.
Tying off: Finishing a thread by running it under several stitches on the back of the fabric before cutting. Prevents stitches from unraveling.
Tweeding: Blending two different thread colors in the same needle to create a tweedy, mixed-color stitch. Good for shading, fur, or naturalistic textures.

W

Warp: The threads running lengthwise (vertically) in woven fabric, held under tension on the loom during weaving.
Waste canvas: A temporary canvas basted over non-evenweave fabric (such as clothing or linen towels) to provide a grid for counted cross stitch. After stitching, the canvas threads are dampened and pulled out one by one, leaving only the embroidery.
Waste knot: A temporary knot placed on the fabric front, away from the starting point. The thread runs under the fabric surface toward the start. Once surrounding stitches secure the thread, the knot is snipped and the tail pulled to the back.
Water-soluble canvas: A canvas that dissolves in water after stitching. Used like waste canvas but removed by soaking rather than pulling individual threads.
Weft: The threads running crosswise (horizontally) in woven fabric, interlacing over and under the warp threads during weaving.

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